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Operate a SignaLink USB from an Anytone D578

 

  

AnyTone AT-D578UV

Set/Calibrate Time  Message

 

I have two 578 mobiles, one is in my vehicle, the other is used as a base station. After 2 years use, both started to randomly display the Calibrate Date/Time screen upon powerup. This became bothersome since the radio will not finish its POST until you set the date & time. This is especially irritating in my vehicle as I use the BT-01 mic and the radios chassis is mounted elsewhere. Since the POST doesn't finish until you set the Date-Time, you are forced to do this via the chassis front panel.

 

The 578 Date-Time is maintained by an internal battery that is soldered in, located in the radios front panel. Here is the battery (note the decent sized solder lugs, this view is the bottom of the battery):

XH414HG

This is a rechargeable battery; and as far as I could determine... it receives charge current anytime the radio is getting 12vdc, even if the radio is powered off. Both my 578's are disconnected from 12v when not in use; which prevents the internal battery from being charged during these voltage-disconnected times. Seems that after 2 years the battery would no longer hold enough of a charge to last overnight disconnection from a 12v source.

It is located here on the front panel circuit board (in this pic, the original battery has already been removed):

The replacement options were:

* get the same exact battery as the mfgr used.

* go with a different style battery (that would fit physically in the front panel area)

* go with a different style battery and place it in the main chassis cavity behind the front panel.

I decided to not reinstall the original type battery (they don't seem to last long). So I went with a trusted 2032 coin cell, the thin case allows it to fit (snugly) in the front panel area.

I've now been operating both my 578 radios with the 2032 for 1.5 years and there's been no issue, not even one hiccup.

There is a 2032 sold that is rechargeable:

the LIR2032. I couldn't locate specs as to what charge current the LIR2032 wants, and what charge current the 578 supplies to the battery; hence I went with the standard 2032 non rechargeable. They have been known to last 10 years.

The 2032 I selected had solder tabs already installed. Since this battery is not rechargeable, you need to block the charge current from the 578, so I ran a diode in series of the + lead:

Even though the 2032 is thin, it just barely fit in the front panel area:

 

F A Q

* Is this the only way to correct the Date/Time error due to a failing internal battery?

Of course not. There's probably plenty of additional ways to correct this; I'm just sharing the method I went with.

* How difficult is this to do?

the most difficult part was removing the original battery. The solder lugs are decent sized, and it took a lot of concentrated heat to get it to lift off without damaging the circuit board.

* Wouldn't it of made more sense to go with a rechargeable replacement battery and not use the blocking diode?

If the 2032 didn't work out, I would of went this other route. I waited until 18 months of use to see if the 2032 option was viable before making a web page about it. All this means is that a 2032 (with diode) is one of many possible options out there. I certainly didn't want to use a direct replacement battery, as I had little faith I'd get more than 2 years use out if it.  

* Why not place the non-rechargeable 2032 in a socket for easy replacement in the future?

That would make sense, but there was little extra room in the front panel area for the bare battery itself. Maybe you could put the repalcement battery & socket inside the main chassis area where there would more clearance for a socket/holder... then run just one wire from there to the front panel. Hopefully there's room in the main chassis for this:

 

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